Roos & Roos Mentha Religiosa Diptyque Odeyo Dior Miss Dior

Acqua di Parma Colonia Acqua di Parma Cerruti 1881

In the Victorians’ language of flowers, gardenia stood for refinement and purity. Schedule your weekly meals and get auto-generated shopping lists. The flowers themselves are really mean with their oil, though, and synthetics are more often used to recreate lily of the valley’s magic:  Lilial, Lyral and hydroxycitronellal are among them.

For centuries, the essential oil of bergamot has had a close link to perfumery and scent, even used to scent small papier-mâché boxes for keeping small precious mementos - like locks of hair and ‘love letters. (‘Headspace’ technology is usually used to capture the scent:  the air around the bloom is analysed, and the aroma compounds flawlessly recreated in the lab.). But not any more:  this seriously exotic, intense, rich fragrance note is at the top of the price scale for ingredients – though even so, it’s still present in as much as 40% of quality perfume creations. Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso Tauer Perfumes 08 Une Rose Chyprée Clive Christian V for Women ), Amouage Memoir Woman Allegedly, in 1525, a Saronno church commissioned one of Leonardo da Vinci’s pupils, artist Bernardino Luini, to daub their sanctuary with frescoes. Guerlain Myrrhe & Délires The history of incense itself goes back thousands of years – in fact, the first perfumes were burned, not worn:  perfume actually gets its name from ‘per fumum’, or ‘through smoke’. It starts a conversation with the "still small voice of calm".'.

Michael Kors Island (Nobody’s quite sure where the fruit originated: maybe the southern Mediterranean, maybe China…) Because of their luscious, hint-of-raspberry juiciness, blood oranges have become incredibly popular to eat – and now they’re making their way into zesty perfumery, too, with a warm, tangy, citrussy, berry-like quality that adds a real sparkle factor to fragrance creations, complementing other citrus elements (mandarin, neroli, grapefruit), as well as rose and geranium, and spicy notes of clove and cinnamon. Through a process of ‘fractionation’ – separating the different elements of an individual ingredient, and removing the potential sensitiser – it’s possible to get an ingredient that’s much closer to the oakmoss we know and loved.

), Calvin Klein Contradiction That may be the more important question.

It’s also grown in southern France and in Côte d'Ivoire for the essential oil (and in in southern Turkey for its marmalade…), Jo Malone London Oud and Bergamot Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious Sparkling Apple The note is steam-distilled or solvent-extracted from the creamy flowers of the tall plant (Cananga odorata) – it can be either a tree or a vine, growing to almost 20 metres. Widely used in cooking, too, in south-east Asia – and perhaps most famously, to flavour chai - its slightly camphorous properties work to freshen breath. And are you ready for the explanation of the name…? Frankincense is incredibly powerful as an ingredient – so it’s only generally used in teensy doses (except in perfumes designed to conjure up the smell of actual incense). Max Mara Max Mara It’s extraordinary that a single plant can smell so different, depending on where it’s grown. In general, what you smell is a synthetic or ‘fantasy’ ingredient rather than the scent of punnets-ful of squeezed red fruits. It has an abstract quality and has become widely used as a base note, in more complex perfumes. Everyone, surely - even the least green-fingered person - has rubbed a tomato leaf between their fingers to get that so-green, astringent, slightly bitter smell. … Chanel Chance The gum itself comes from an umbelliferous (umbrella-like) Persian grass, and can vary from amber to dark green. Fragrances today are mostly a fusion of ingredients taken from nature – or inspired by nature – together with the synthetics (man-made ingredients) that are used to make them last longer, ‘carry further’, or stay ‘true’, when worn on the skin.
Unable to marry him due to her divine nature, she transformed herself into a plant that would provide pleasure and happiness – that plant was the Vanilla vine. Orange blossom absolute is richer, sweeter, headier – there are hints of that other white flower, jasmine, about it (and if you look at its chemical make-up, there are similar aroma compounds in both).
And it’s used as incense and burned on altars, as a way of communicating with the heavens.

Dior Hypnotic Poison Goutal le Mimosa 15 Yardley Lily of the Valley, Juicy watermelon has been quenching perfume-lovers thirst for fruity notes a lot, recently, thanks to the trend for fruity-florals. Dior Addict © 2020  Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impériale Miller Harris L’Air de Rien But perfume-wise, sugar’s star is in the ascendant in line with the boom in gourmand compositions, adding almost a touch of ‘booziness’. Cinnamomum cassia even has cinnamon in its botanical name, and is known sometimes as ‘Chinese cinnamon’, or even ‘false cinnamon’. L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two. Unpick the chemical structure of this plant and you’ll find it’s incredibly rich in an aroma compound called eugenol - so quite often, what you smell in a perfume hasn’t come from a plant at all, but has been synthesised.

eg The Chinese Muck Spreader by Hoo Flung Dung, Cliff Accident by Eileen Dover etc.etc. Guerlain Insolence So:  it’s produced synthetically, adding a hint of green sweetness – and airiness – to fragrance creations. Halston Woman Amber Dior Poison

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

This is not a toilet book, no toilet present. Clive Christian X for Women

Paul Smith London Paul Smith Women Nina Ricci L’Air Maison Francis Kurkdjian À la rose The scent can also be extracted from the so-pretty ‘bunched’ variety – Narcissus tazetta – is native to southern Europe and now also grown widely across Asia, the Middle East, north Africa, northern India, China and Japan. Christian Dior Miss Dior Cherie L’Eau (Though it can help to accent other herbal elements of a composition. Estée Lauder Pleasures Bvlgari BLV Jo Malone London Blackberry and Bay. But smell carefully and you might pick up hints of pink jasmine or even ylang-ylang, perhaps with green undertones.

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), Grès Fleur de Cabotine Technically, heliotrope can be still extracted by maceration (or through solvent extraction, the modern form of enfleurage), an echo of those times - but today it’s synthetic heliotropin – read about it here – which perfumers rely on. That’s the zesty, lemony burst of citral, a natural aldehyde which is present in the oil of quite a few plants, including lemon myrtle, lemongrass, lemon tea tree, lemon verbena, lemons themselves, limes, as well as orange and petitgrain (the flower of the bitter orange). Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection:  Esquel. (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) By Kilian Back to Black Nasomatto Narcotic Venus But it’s the orgy of white neroli blossoms which get ‘noses’ really excited:  airy, citrussy, green, but with whispers of honey and orange bubbling subtly underneath. L'Occitane Orange Leaves Eau de Cologne Amouage Gold pour Femme You can contact the sales team for more info. Jovoy Paris Boisé The ‘blood’ refers to the deep crimson flesh of this delicious Citrus sinensis orange, which flourishes in Italy. he accusingly asks the elephant, python, crocodile, vulture, and other large beasts he encounters. Lancôme La Vie Est Belle Alienor adds: 'It's smells like tea, actually.'

Tom Ford Black Orchid. Diluted, blended, civet morphs into something altogether lustily musky and inviting, adding warmth and radiance to floral scents especially, and working as a ‘fixative’. Creed Jasmal Add a touch to cooking, and it turns a dish bright yellow. (We do.) by Ben Redlich    website    blog    facebook    twitter, Sky Pony Press    website   blog   facebook   twitter, © 2013 by Sky Pony Press, used with permission, Text & Illustrations copyright © 2013 by Ben Redlich. Donna Karan Be Delicious

Adds perfumer Andy Tauer, 'Styrax actually comes in two forms, which give different effects. It’s not that type of rosewood which perfumers use, with its floral, slightly rose-like odour:  that’s from the Aniba rosaeodora tree, better known as Brazilian rosewood. Dior Hypnotic Poison Lacoste Pour Femme Superb floraliser. Floris A Rose For... Sisley Eau de Campagne, Deadly nightshade. Nasomatto Hindu Grass Cartier Cartier de Lune

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